Italy Wine Guide

A Brief Introduction to Italian Wine

A note from our buyer, Dan.  

I don’t come from a family of big drinkers, aside from Miller Lite, so when I was getting into the food and beverage industry, I certainly didn’t know anything about wine. Just after catching the wine bug, I gravitated towards Spanish reds and French whites. I purchased with a spirit of adventure, more than anything, trying wines from new places and grapes I hadn’t heard of. It wasn’t long before an Italian wine filled my cup. I wish I could say it was love at first sip, but it really wasn’t. Harsh tannins, savory herb tones and rich minerality overwhelmed my beginner’s palate.  

It was a few years before I came back to Italian wine and even then, I was convinced that I disliked Chianti.  

That all began to change once I got my first serious job in wine, as the beverage director of SheWolf Pastificio & Bar in Midtown Detroit. Putting together and continuing to curate a list made entirely of Italian wine was fascinating – it held my interest for five years! Getting to learn and experience the subtleties of Nebbiolo, the extreme variance of Sangiovese, the depth and diversity of Sicilian wine, and the history that went along with it all.  

While working to get Lutine open I made a point to drink as much French, American, and other wine as possible, refreshing my knowledge of other regions and adjusting my palate to those places. When one of our sales reps poured a sample bottle of Brunello into my glass, I couldn’t help but feel that, ‘this tastes like home.’  

Anyways, let’s get to the good stuff -  

The ancient Greeks referred to the Italian Peninsula as ‘Enotria’, literally ‘Land of Vines.’ This arid and mountainous territory has been bursting with grape vines for millennia. Due to this ancient winegrowing tradition and the historical difficulty to traverse the entire country (if you’ve ever driven through Umbria, you know how extreme the Apennines can be) there an incredible array of local grapes and regional traditions that define the way people eat, drink, dress, and speak. As you’d expect, these regional divides run deep. Even today, it’s best to think of Italy as a collection of 20 smaller, distinct places with their own histories and traditions (more on this later). 

To draw a comparison - while much of French wine is about showcasing hyper-specific terroir and winemaking choices with the production of a relatively limited number grapes, Italian wine showcases thousands of different grape varietals from the place they’ve traditionally grown. For example - while French vignerons bottle 1000s of Pinot Noir-based wines under a large variety of names denoting vineyard and place, Producers across Italy produce highly localized wines based on their indigenous grapes (Taurasi is made from Aglianico, Barolo from Nebbiolo, etc.). 

The Italian wine system is best understood as being based on regional wine grapes and styles that are traditional and winemaking styles that are widely practiced, but non-native to Italy. These laws and designations have been established and tweaked over the last 65 years. It’s still actively evolving and small changes are made every year.  

 

Here is a brief breakdown of the tax stickers and labels you might see on a bottle of Italian wine: 

Traditional designations: 

VdT - Vino di Tavola (literally ‘table wine’). These are simple wines, made within Italy and without much regulation. Not necessarily a wine of quality. Can be made from a wide variety of grapes and without aging requirements. We don’t see much of this in the US, it is primarily for simple daily consumption within Italy itself. Those big jugs of wine that you can find in local taverns, selling 3 Euro glasses, will usually be VdT.  

DOC - Denominazione di Origine Controllata - A series of ~330 community-based consortiums that regulate what a ‘typical’ wine of the region is. They set standards for harvest yields, what grapes you can use, how the wine should be aged, and for how long. These are going to be ‘wines of quality’. Basically stated, these are traditional wines from a specific place, from specific grapes, and made in a specific way. Some producers will label as ‘DOP’ in alignment with stricter European Union standards. Sometimes this is to showcase them going ‘the extra mile’, other times they simply want to marginally separate themselves from the local consortium for any number of reasons. 

DOCG - Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita. Like DOC producers, DOCG regions have stringent requirements for growing, aging, cépage, etc. However these places and wines (77 of them) have been cited by the Italian government as especially historically important. It’s important to stress that this is not a quality designation - one can be a visionary making non-traditional VdT wine, or a terrible vigneron making DOCG wines. So, it’s best to get acquainted with producers before splurging on something that’s expensive just for the sake of being expensive. Can also be labeled as DOP, but this isn’t very common, since DOCG benchmarks are more exacting than those of a DOC.  

Non-Traditional Designations: 

IGT - Indicazione Geografica Tipica wines are typically going to be wines of quality, made using grapes or methods that aren’t traditionally used in a region. This designation was first implemented for the early ‘Super Tuscans’ of the late 1960s and early 1970s. These were bold Sangiovese, Cabernet, and Merlot-based wines that showcased the sunny warmth of Tuscany. They made use of low yields and expensive new oak barrels, and were wines of quality, but were required to label them as VdT, since they didn’t fit any other local/traditional designations. IGT was unveiled to help with this problem. Similar to Vin de France, IGT can be used by winemakers who want to try something new, or separate themselves from the local consortium. You might also see them labeled as IGP, which is a further rebellion from Italian wine law and follows stricter European Union standards. 

 

Some History, along with Climatic and Regional Distinctions (including some important wines from each): 

Although Italy was long unified under the Western Roman Empire, it spent much of the next 1200 years being cut apart by the Austrians, Spanish, and French. It wasn’t until the reign of Napoleon that the land mass once again found itself unified. However, in the wake of his empire’s collapse in 1815, the Peninsula quickly divided itself into several autonomous regional kingdoms. This relatively recent history reinforced existing cultural and economic divides.  

In the north, these small kingdoms could easily trade with their Continental European counterparts, bringing a confluence of ideas, products, and wealth that was unable to be matched by the more agricultural central and southern portions of the peninsula. The wines of the country are still dealing (and thriving!) with these historic distinctions.  

Wealthier northern regions and some central ones, notably Tuscany, have long had a mature and polished winemaking culture and the techniques associated with that. Higher quality barrels, and other equipment allowed these places  

Italy as we know it is a relatively new country, This collection of 20 semi-autonomous regional kingdoms. 

Further, as a long and narrow country, the Italian Peninsula’s climate for grape growing are defined by 2 things: (1) the altitudes of mountains, the Alps and Dolomites to the North and the Apennines running along the length of the country and (2) proximity to the Sea. 

These two elements provide cooling winds through the hot, arid Summers found up and down the country. This influx of chilly nighttime air allows the vines to rest and reset before the next day’s heat gets the grapes ripening once again (this difference in temperature between night and day is called a ‘Diurnal Shift. Having a significant one can be great for quality grape growing). That said, there is still a large discrepancy in how the North, with a more continental climate, and the rest of the country, more Mediterranean interact with the world around them. Following the climate and wealth of this country, as we provide brief descriptions of each region below expect them to be arranged from North to South. 

North

Friuli is nestled in the far Northeast of Italy shares borders with Austria, Slovenia, and the Adriatic Sea. Historically, Friuli Venezia Giulia has been a crossroads of cultures, reflecting its turbulent past under various rulers, including the Romans, Habsburgs, Venetians, and USSR. This cultural diversity has influenced winemaking practices and introduced a range of grape varieties to the region.

This cool-climate hilly region is most famed for its bright, mineral whites, notably made from the Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, and Friulano grapes. Ramato (copper/macerated) wines have been made here for millennia, as have savory reds from indigenous grapes (Refosco, Schioppettino, Teran, etc.). Thanks to the Austro-Hungarians, plenty of traditional Continental grapes grow here, too - think Sauvignon (Blanc), Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc – all of which shine in the region’s mineral rich soils.  

Many of the winemakers in this region have avoided Friulian producers make some of our favorite wines from the entire country. Here’s a brief list of estates to keep an eye out for on our shelves – Gravner, Radikon, Edi Kante, Vignai da Duline, Mario Schioppetto, and Valdopivec.  

Trentino-Alto Adige located northwest of Friuli, is another region caught between two cultures - half Germanic, half Italian. Oftentimes, street signs, restaurant menus, and wine labels will be in both languages (let’s be real, the food and wine are what you’re here for).  

Over the last 50 years, the region has really started to come into its own from a winemaking perspective, but there is a long and rich agricultural tradition there.  

The region’s terrain and climate are defined by altitude and exposure of the cool winds of the Dolomite Mountains and the Eastern Alps. These two mountain ranges, running into one another thousands of years ago, have left breathtakingly beautiful hills, outlooks, and valleys. Most of the valley floors are covered in orchards (Trentino-Alto Adige is Europe’s main apple grower), while grape vines run along the craggy mountain hillsides. 

The region has historically been known for their textured, but piercingly acidic whites made from Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Kerner, and Incrocio Manzoni. If I were to draw a comparative point, I’d probably say they drink most similarly to the wines of Alsace. Meanwhile, Pinot Noir and Merlot thrive alongside emergent native grapes Teroldego, Lagrein. 

As mentioned, Trentino is going through a bit of a renaissance for quality winemaking, with growers focused more than ever on farming practices and trusting the land and the vines to produce focused wines of great complexity. Some of our favorite wineries from Trentino-Alto Adige are Foradori, Radoar, Elena Walch, Weingut Nusserhof, Feruccio Carlotto, and Cantina Terlano.  

Veneto is home to many important terroir and technique-driven wine styles, including Prosecco (at least, the best Prosecco), Amarone, Ripasso, Recioto, and Lugana. Located South of Trentino-Alto Adige and West of Friuli, the region is still defined by cool Alpine climates and rolling hills. That said, there is more influence of the Adriatic Sea, bringing cool nighttime breezes and mineral-rich soil. While there is quite a bit of high quality winemaking here, a lot of it finds its way into bulk wine, the Veneto is usually Italy’s largest producing region by voume. 

Unlike its neighbors, which are best-known for their single varietal wines, in Veneto they are master technicians and blenders. The cool climate here best showcases fresh whites, sparkling wines, and a plethora of rich reds using the Appassimento process. By allowing the grapes to partially dry on straw mats the Appassimento process increases concentration of flavor, increases alcohol, and results in a more succulent fruit quality (notably seen in Amarone della Valpolicella and Recioto della Valpolicella). 

Though complex, the wines of Veneto are easy to like, that said these are some of the producer’s we’re always smitten with – Giuseppe Quintarelli (the first and last name you need to know in Amarone, etc.), Zyme, Speri, Gregoletto, La Tordera, Ottella, Pieropan.

Lombardia, home to Milan, is one of Italy’s wealthiest regions thanks to its manufacturing and design-rich history. While the region is mountainous, butting up against and running into the Alps, the climate is decidedly moderate. Two large bodies of water – Lake Garda and Lake Como – help to control large temperature swings, making Lombardia one of the most consistently temperate regions in the entire country. The combination of extremely high altitudes and a moderate climate allows the region to produce a wide variety of expressive, refined, and refreshing takes on all categories of wine, most notably racy sparkling and elegant reds. 

Franciacorta, one of Italy’s answers to Champagne, is made in the center of the region, just a little bit Northwest of Milan. Like Champagne, they use the Metodo Classico (traditional method) for imbuing sparkling, have lean chalky soil, and primarily use the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes for production. Lombardia is also renowned for high elevation Valtellina Nebbiolo that showcases a retrained, angular wine compared to those from Piedmont. Plenty of other quality wines are starting to come out of the region, but the still wines are playing catch up, compared to their Western neighbors. 

Some producers worth keeping an eye out for are Ar.Pe.Pe, Rainoldi, Alessandra Divella, and Ca del’Bosco. 

Piedmont is one of Italy’s most important wine regions, home to Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti, Alta Langhe, and a slew of other regions. We are going to keep things surprisingly brief here for now, since there is going to be a longer write up just on the wines and traditions of this region (beyond being incredibly important, it’s one of my favorite places to drink wine from).  

Piedmont literally comes from “Pie-Monte”, literally “Foot of the Mountains”. This is where the Apennines and the Alps collided millions of years ago, resulting in wavy, stunted hillsides that can make a 15km journey (as the crow flies) take 30 minutes by car. The varied exposures, elevations, erosion, and mineral makeup here result in some of the most complex wines in the World, let alone Italy. 

The Nebbiolo grape has proven to be the best steward of showing off this varied terroir. As grown here, Nebbiolo can display a diverse array of structural power and aromatic subtleties in a way that’s only comparable to the Pinot Noir wines of the Cote de Nuits in Burgundy.  

There are other red grapes thriving here too – notably the textured and acid-driven Barbera and the tannin-first Dolcetto. Gavi’s Cortese grape is probably the most famous indigenous varietal, however Timorasso, Nascetta, and Favorita are all starting to gain recognition. Internationally loved varietals like Chardonnay and Riesling are also starting to find serious appreciation in this absolute star of a region. 

Ok, I said this was going to be short. Time to stop now and mention some vigneron which have wine in my basement (the super famous guys don’t need any help with SEO) – Roagna, Cascina Luisin, Oddero, Le Piane, Borgogno, Cavalotto, GD Vajra, La Ca Nova, Angelo Negro, Paitin, San Fereolo, Colombera & Garella, and Proprieta Sperino. 

Vallé d’Aoste is the smallest region in Italy in terms of population and vineyard plantings (there’s only ~1,100 acres planted). Another northerly Alpine region that shares border Piedmont, France, and Switzerland. Perhaps it's due to these impressive neighbors, but this tiny region punches way above it's weight.

With some of the highest elevation vineyards in all of Europe, light reds and lean mineral whites are the order of the day in this cool climate zone. Some of the highest elevation wines in all of Europe are in this small Alpine zone. Nebbiolo, Gamay, Fumin, and Prie Blanc are some of our favorite wine grapes grown in the from the Aoste Valley.  

We adore the following producers from Valée d’Aoste - Danilo Thomain, Grosjean, Ermes Pavese, and Elio Ottin, La Kiuva.

Liguria, is known as the Italian Riviera. Nestled between Piedmont, Tuscany, and Mediterranean France, Liguria is an under-the-radar producer of some incredible wines (which, frankly, just means that there are incredible values to be had). Similarly to Provence and Southern Piedmont, there is a salinity and freshness that runs through these wines, imbued from the cool Mediterranean air.

For whites, bright yet textured Vermentino is king here, along with the more aromatic Pigato, and zippy Lumassina. On the red side, Rossesse and Ciliegiolo are best known for turning out ethereal reds that maintain serious fruit depth. 

Some of our favorite wineries in this up and coming region are Bisson, Cantina Lunae, Testalonga, and Punta Crena.

Emilia-Romagna is a geographically large region in the Northeast of Italy and home to some of the most important foods of Italy (Prosciutto di Parma, Balsamico di Modena, Parmigiano Reggiano). Beyond this incredibly high-quality food production acres of wheat fields cover the region, fueling the countryside with copious amounts of pasta and bread. 

Emilia-Romagna produces a rather large volume of wine, but much of it is simply at the VdT level. Much of it is intentionally quaffable, meant to easily enhance the enjoyment of a meal, and cut through the rich foods the region’s farmers and makers are famous for.  

The low-pressure sparkling wines of Lambrusco are most notable, coming in a variety of styles ranging from white to deep red and sweet to dry. Please don’t confuse this with Riunite and other sickly-sweet wines that might’ve been found in your Great Aunt’s cupboard. There are serious producers making acid-driven World Class wines that speak to terroir from this large family of grapes (over 20 grapes in the Lambrusco family are regularly used in winemaking).  

Sangiovese and Albana Secco are some other notable grapes in the region, typically showing up in moder-facing Reds and aromatic whites or dessert wines.

Some of our favorite producers in the region are Terrevive, Cleto Chiarli, Tre Monti, and Paltrinieri.  

Central

Tuscany  is nestled between Liguria and the Lazio on Italy’s Mediterranean coast, is undoubtedly the region most thought of here in the US. There is an undeniable history rooted in the wealth and culture of Florence, Siena, Livorno, and other hubs of culture. But there is so much more to explore in this large and varied territory, especially when it comes to wine! Like Piedmont, there is way too much to cover in this post covering the whole country, so expect at least one more localized and in-depth guide, breaking down specific zones, in the future.  

Like so many other regions across the Italian Peninsula, there is huge variance in climate and soil depending on proximity to the Sea and Altitude of the Apennine Mountains. Tuscany produces the third largest Italian region by production (only Veneto and Sicily surpass it) and has a massive variance in producer ideology, terroir, and wine styles. 

When thinking about Tuscany we need to begin the conversation with just 1 grape – Sangiovese. This grape is the backbone to some of the most famous wines in the world - Chianti Classico, Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano - and is the most planted throughout the entire country of Italy. These wines can be bright and expressive when grown in the isolated mountains surrounding Radda in Chianti, fruit-driven and silky when grown in the arid highlands near Montepulciano (not to be confused with the Abruzzese grape), or powerful and structured when grown in the mineral and iron-rich soils of Montepulciano.  

There is some lovely production of rosé and whites from Sangiovese and Vermentino, respectively. But modern Tuscany is most defined for the American consumer by the coastal regions of Bolgheri and Maremma, where the family of Super-Tuscan wines that revolutionized the Italian wine industry through the second half of the 20th Century came from. Both of which are some of the best places for international grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc, and Merlot, in particular) to grow in the country. Despite scorching Summertime temps, proximity to the Mediterranean keeps nighttime temperatures cool, providing long growing seasons that can provide elegance as a counter to depth.  

Similarly to Piedmont, there are incredbily famous wines from this place, all of which are plastered across the internet. Instead, I’ll focus on some of my absolute favorites from the region – Montevertine, Monte Bernardi, Le Ragnaie, Bibi Graetz, Biondi Santi (impossible not to include, despite fame), Uccelliera, Isole e Olena, Montesecondo, Fuligni, Gracciano della Seta, and Massa Vecchia. 

Abruzzo, located on the Adriatic in the Center of the country, is only just starting to come into its own. The region is incredibly diverse, depending on where wine is coming from – the arid and mountainous inland forests, the cool lowlands near the Sea, or the high elevation plains to the regions north are turning out a dizzying array of bottles from a relatively scant number of grapes (compared to the rest of the county). Montepulciano, the region’s main red grape, can be made into a wide variety of styles from racy Rosé to extracted and oak-driven reds. Pecorino and Trebbiano are the main whites, both of which turn out wines with gracious textures and ripe fruits which are cut with a serious dose of mouth-watering acidity.  

There are undoubtedly some incredibly famous traditional wines and winemakers in Abruzzo (Emidio Pepe, Cataldi Madonna, etc). However, as vineyard acreage prices continue to rise in Tuscany, Piedmont, and other famous places, there is a contingent of young producers popping up in Abruzzo, most of whom are experimenting with new styles and methods of regional winemaking. Like the natural wine movement in France and the US, these young Vigneron are looking for brighter flavors, ethical farming, and lower alcohol while retaining a sense of place. Over the next few years. Keep your eyes peeled, try something new, when we see Abruzzo on a bottle we’re always happy to take a risk. 

Marche, is a small region just north of Abruzzo on the Adriatic sea. Frankly, this small region has a lot in common with Abruzzo, sharing a cool-climate coast line and arid elevated zones inland. While there is some great quality production of Montepulciano, Pecorino, and Trebbiano, the Marche is most renowned for their production of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, one of Italy’s most important and most age-worthy white wines. These fresh whites can vary greatly in style, depending on what part of the region they hail from, but are always delicious. Andrea Felici and Tavignano are some of our favorite estates in the region. 

Molise is the newest region in Italy, only separating itself politically from Abruzzo in the late 1960s. As you’d expect, there is much in common with its neighbor to the north, with more elevation and less maritime influence. Most wine grown in the region is for local consumption, with only ~5% of production getting certified under the DOC system. 

With that being the case, there isn’t much representation in Michigan yet from this small, emerging region. I’ve only had the pleasure of tasting a few producers, all of them at VinItaly (massive wine conference that happens each Spring in Verona). The Tintilia grape is the region’s most famous. Tintilia has the ability to make deep, structured, and extracted wines that would be well suited for any Bordeaux or Cabernet drinker. I hope these wines are able to get here soon, so we can all learn a little bit more. 

Lazio is one of the lesser known regions in Italy, not for its location, population or history (just South of Tuscany, home to Rome), but the winemaking has never been particularly innovative. Compared to all the neighboring regions, Lazio is relatively flat and less suited to making wines with enough acidity to provide balance. 

The region’s production is almost entirely white, focused on the Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia grapes. Frascati is it’s most famous DOCG level wine, unfortunately there aren’t many examples that genuinely get us excited. Despite this modern lull in quality production, there is a younger generation hoping to make some waves with the use of International grapes, making rich reds from Syrah, Cabernet Franc, etc. 

Colli di Catone is the great exception to quality Frascati – confident wines that provide value. Monastero Suore Cistercensi is a literal Cistercian Nunnery where they learned how to make wine from Gianpiero Bea of Umbria’s Paolo Bea. Their wines are energetic and life giving. Nun wine!  

Umbria, located to the Southeast of Tuscany, is the only region in Italy that doesn’t touch the sea or border another country. The region is defined by the rolling hills and mountains of the Apennines. So even though it’s incredibly hot and sunny through the growing season, Umbrian producers still make balanced wines due to the elevation.  

Sangiovese and Vermentino are still widely planted, like in neighboring Tuscany. However, Umbria has a distinct pride, culture, and underdog attitude that need to be appreciated. The region’s most famous wines (and some of my favorite wines in the world) are made from Indigenous varietals – Sagrantino, Grechetto, and Trebbiano Spoletino. 

To the East of Umbria, near Montefalco, Sagrantino is king, producing the region’s most important DOCG wines. When fermented into dry wines, this ancient varietal can be one of the most structured, domineering, phenol-rich and extracted wines from Italy. Historically it was made into sweet wines through the Appassimento process, similar to Recioto from the Veneto. However, as production standards increased through recent decades, the wines are becoming more elegant and aromatic. If you like Barolo, Taurasi, and Chinon these wines will be for you. Also plays an elegant blending partner to Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Bacca Rosso, and other minor varietals for the less-structured Montefalco Rosso DOC. 

To the Southeast of the region lies Orvieto, where aromatic and textured blended whites come out of the forested Apennines. There isn't a set blend for these wines - Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc all play their parts - but the most serious of them feature Umbria's native Grechetto predominantly. The addition of Grechetto adds texture, a savory olive and almond undertone to ground these otherwise fresh takes on white wine.

Umbria’s Azienda Agricola Paolo Bea might be my favorite Italian producer. It’s impossible for me to list other wineries on the same line as them, so I’ll list them just below. 

Keep an eye out for wines from Decugnano dei Barbi, Arnaldo Caprai, and Bocale. They all show incredibly differently, but equally soulfully.     

South + Islands

Sardinia is located in the Mediterranean to the west of Italy, just south of Corsica. It is a rugged and infertile island best known for its production of the red Cannonau (Grenache) and white Vermentino, which are both grown across the entire island. 

The terrain is incredibly varied, with some vineyards on sandy soils at low elevation beaches, and others on arid and steep cliffs towards the center and south of the Island. In addition to the larger Sardegna DOC designations for Vermentino and Cannonau, there are more specific DOCG zones that specialize in wines with more depth and structure. 

There are also some people starting to experiment with international, especially Southern French grapes, in addition to some lesser-known indigenous varietals.  

Sardinia is a pretty low-key region which Michigan is starting to see more of, some estates worth paying attention to are Agricola Punica, Antonella Corda, and Sella & Mosca.  

Campania is nestled along the Mediterranean in the Southwest of Italy. Like most neighboring regions, there are varied climates and diverse growing regions based on proximity to the sea and elevation, however, Mt. Vesuvius there are huge deposits of volcanic soil throughout the region, bringing interest and depth to wines and produce alike (San Marzano tomatoes!). 

Historically, due to the influence of Naples, Campania is the wealthiest and most technologically advanced region in the south of Italy. With that came trade, better education, and newer technologies. This resulted in wines that are significantly deeper and more refined than those from poorer neighboring regions. Due to oak use, and a warm climate, the rich reds and textured whites are the perfect transition point for many drinkers coming over from the US wine market. Beyond these stylistic similarities, the pull of Naples, Pompeii, and the Amalfi Coast have brought generations of travelers to these famous places, introducing these wines and grapes to generations of worldly folks. 

Taurasi is the most famous wine from the region, made entirely in the Volcanic soils surrounding Vesuvius. These Aglianico-based wines can range from ethereal to rich and structured; thankfully one style isn’t better than the other, you just need to find the right moment for each. You can also find expressive, structured whites made in the classic styles of Fiano d’Avellino (where Tony Soprano’s family came from) and Greco di Tufo.  

Producers from the area that we adore are Luigi Tecce, Benito Ferrara, Casa Setaro, and Mastroberardrino.

Basilicata is a small region to the far south of the Italian mainland, think of it as the arch of the foot. This region has historically been quite impoverished, preventing fine wine from developing there until relatively recently. Being so close to the Sea, there is a huge diurnal shift, as the nighttime air cools down significantly from arid and hot day time temps. The soils, like in much of Southern Italy, is heavily volcanic in influence, giving the wines a depth and minerality.

Like neighboring Campania, they predominantly focus on the red Aglianico grape, and the white varietals Fiano and Greco. Aglianico del Vulture is their only DOCG, these deep and intensely mineral wines much age for 3 years, with one of those years in barrel.

Elena Fucci is our favorite winemaker from the region and we can’t wait to see more serious vigneron start coming to the market! 

Puglia, the heel of the boot, boasts a rich history dating back to ancient times when the Greeks and Romans cultivated vineyards along the region’s southern peninsulas. Puglia's warm Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild winters, is ideal for ripening grapes, contributing to the wines' full-bodied and fruity characteristics. The region's soils are diverse, ranging from calcareous to clay-rich and sandy, which influences the flavor profiles and textures of the wines. Major grape varieties include Primitivo, known for its bold, jammy red wines, and Negroamaro, which produces robust reds with a slightly bitter finish.  

These indigenous grapes thrive in Puglia's climate, resulting in wines with intense color, high alcohol content, and rich flavors. The region's long history of winemaking has also seen the revival of ancient grape varieties and traditional methods. The unique terroir, combined with modern winemaking techniques, allows Puglia to produce distinctive wines that reflect the region's diverse landscapes and cultural heritage. 

Some wineries that we particularly enjoy are I Pástini, Perrini, Alberto Longo, Masseria Li Veli, and Cantina Sociale Cooperative di Copertino.

Calabria, the toe of the boot. Like most other regions we’ve discussed, Calabria is defined by its varying elevation and proximity to the Sea. Like many of the other Southern regions, this place has long been defined by small farmers managing independent farms without much financial reward.  

Ciró is the major growing region, which is along the region’s northern coast, at the entrance of the Gulf of Taranto. These wines are some of the oldest in the world and are made predominantly from the red Gaglioppo grape. There aren’t very many producers available in Michigan, so we don’t have much experience with these ancient wines.  

Sicily is a large island just south of the Italian mainland. Each year, this single region produces more wine by volume than the entire country of Germany. Like Tuscany and Piedmont, this large region primed for it’s own post. 

The volcanic island is hugely diverse, with rolling hills, ranging elevations and soil types. The desert-like center of the island is nothing like the high elevation slopes on Mt Etna, nor the low elevation and iron rich sands of Vittoria in the Southeast, or the windswept islands just offshore.  

For the last 250 years the region has been best known for their production of the fortified and oxidized wines of Marsala. To keep up with this historic demand, most production is centered on white varietals, especially Cataratto. However, there has been a major quality revolution in farming and the production of dry wines since the 1980s. Other native grapes and varying terroirs are finally being highlighted to the degree they deserve. Nero d’Avola, Frappato and Nerello Mascalese are major reds, with Grillo, Carricante, and Zibibbo comprising the most important native whites. Some Rhone grapes are also starting to show real potential across this varied region.  

Benchmark producers we adore are Arianna Occhipinti, COS, Benanti, Frank Cornelissen, Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Calabretta, Gabrio Bini, Donnafugata